Costume, Number 44, 2010
Byrde, Penelope; Wilson, Verity
Ann Saunders: An Appreciation
Ann Saunders: Costume and Maney Publishing
In 1976 the Costume Society commenced its association with W. S. Maney & Son Ltd of Leeds as printer and distributor of Costume. Nearly four decades later this relationship continues, with Maney now taking the role of the Society's publishing partner. This paper gives some details of the production of the journal over this time, drawn together from the virtually complete archive of production and costing records held by Maney; it also provides a brief insight into the relationship between the publisher and journal editor. The paper is adapted and extended from a speech originally given at Ann Saunder's retirement party held at the London office of Maney Publishing, Carlton House Terrace, London, on 11 September 2008.
Ann Saunders: A Bibliography
The following bibliography is arranged by date, starting with Ann's publications as Ann Cox-Johnson, and continuing after her marriage as Ann Saunders.
Richard Whittington and His Sales to the Great Wardrobe in the Years 1392 to 1394
The list of goods supplied to the Great Wardrobe by Richard Whittington provides a starting point for a better understanding of the early career of this famous merchant of medieval London, one who made his initial fortune by selling large quantities of fine mercery to Richard II and the aristocracy. It demonstrates the range of textiles a medieval mercer like Whittington dealt in, shows how ? in the absence of supporting documentation ? these may have been used within the royal household, and prompts a consideration of the increased royal spending which has branded the king as extravagant.
The 'Empresse of Flowers': The Significance of Floral Imagery in Two Portraits of Elizabeth I at Jesus College, Oxford
This paper will consider the significance of flowers in Elizabeth I's portraiture and dress, and it will do so by focusing on two portraits of the queen at Jesus College, Oxford.
The Story of a Shirt: A Cautionary Tale with an Unexpected Ending
Levey, Santina M.
This article demonstrates how tracing the history of an altered garment can be as complex and unexpected as the plot of a good detective story.
The Origins of Dress History and Cesare Vecellio's 'pourtraits of attire'
This article discusses possible reasons for the creation of Degli Habiti Antichi, et Moderni. It is suggested that Vecellio's achievement in describing dress with a combination of illustrative woodcuts and descriptive prose may be celebrated as the first modern history of dress.
An Enigmatic Bourgeois: Jean Revel Dons a Nightgown for His Portrait
Miller, Lesley Ellis
This article focuses on the only surviving portrait of Jean Revel (1684?1751), the most eminent French silk designer of the first half of the eighteenth century. It investigates the message created by the artist and the sitter through the dress depicted, setting it firmly within its cultural and social context.
Bespoke Versus Ready-Made: The Work of the Tailor in Eighteenth-Century Britain
By the beginning of the eighteenth century, tailors had, for centuries, made bespoke clothing in wool for men, and outer garments for women. As the century developed, a number of tailors drew on a range of commercial opportunities and strengthening popular consumption to expand their businesses and increase their profits. The most dramatic development saw some tailoring establishments offering ready-made garments alongside bespoke, whilst other large-scale 'wholesale tailors' specialized exclusively in made-up clothing. This paper will briefly explore some of the evidence to suggest that tailors turned to the ready-made market during the eighteenth century.
The Versailles Sash
An object-based analysis of a silk sash printed with neoclassical medallions and several inscriptions, dated 1788 and manufactured by Clay & Hunt, a Coventry ribbon weavers with premises in London.
The Arrival of the Country Relations: Alexander Carse's Painting of 1812
Tarrant, Naomi E.A.
The dress in this Scottish painting is discussed in the light of rural and city life styles of the period. This paper is published as a mark of respect for, and appreciation of, Ann Saunders, a friend and colleague within the Society for many years.
Kitted Out for Australia: Dress and Chattels for British Emigrants, 1840-70
Over 1.5 million men, women and children emigrated from Britain to Australia and New Zealand in the second half of the nineteenth century. This paper explores how they coped with the privations of the voyage, and how they prepared themselves to make the best possible impression in their new country through their clothes.
Arnold Bennett, Edith Wharton and the 'Minotaur of Time'
One of the most potent ways in which the past resonates in the present is via clothing; it is both so distant and yet so familiar to us, and so effective at recalling both a vanished period, and the intimacy of personal emotions. A comparison of the ways dress is used in Arnold Bennett's The Old Wives' Tale and Edith Wharton's The Age of Innocence is the focus of this essay.
Margot Fonteyn and Fashion Designers in the 1940s
This paper examines the role that ballerina Dame Margot Fonteyn played as an advocate for British fashion in the 1940s, with particular reference to the Sadler's Wells tour of the USA after the Second World War. The article draws on surviving ensembles from Dame Margot's wardrobe in the collection at the Fashion Museum (formerly the Museum of Costume) in Bath as well as material in the Theatre Museum Archive in London.
Mrs Beazley's Kredemnon: Homeric Comforts for the Troops, 1939-45
The veil which the White Goddess, Ino, gave to Odysseus to protect him inspired an unorthodox garment sent as a comfort to the troops of the Second World War.
Aagot Noss and Her Lifetime Research
The work of the distinguished Norwegian folk dress historian, Aagot Noss, is considered, and her eleven books on folk dress and its customs, based on fieldwork for the Norwegian Folk Museum, are described and discussed.
New and Recent Books
Selective List of Recent Articles from Periodicals
Jeremy Farrell 1947-2008
Wood, Pamela J.
Valerie Mansfield 1921-2008
A New Future for the Textile Conservation Centre at Glasgow University
The Costume Society Awards
Notice of Intent to Digitize Back Issues of Costume
Byrde, Penelope; Wilson, Verity