Volume 46

Costume, Volume 46, Number 1, 2012




pp. 1-2(2)


Queen Anne Commands: Clothing the Kettle Drummer to the Ordnance, 1705-1708

pp. 3-16(14)

Poppy, Pat

The account books of the Board of Ordnance in the National Archives list the provisions made to the Ordnance, including clothing, and offer a wonderful insight into uniform provided to the soldiers serving with this branch of the military at time of the War of the Spanish Succession. Through a series of accounts dating from 1706 to 1708 this paper demonstrates how one position under the control of the Board of Ordnance, that of the kettle drummer, was ostentatious in the extreme requiring ninety yards of gold lace. The article will relate his clothing to clothing provided to other soldiers, and show how his clothes reflected the high status of the kettle drummer.


The Clothing of a Georgian Banker, Thomas Coutts: A Story of Museum Dispersal

pp. 17-54(38) 

Wilcox, David

In the early years of the twentieth century, the surviving wardrobe of the Georgian banker Thomas Coutts (1735?1822) was donated to the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. This large collection of clothing was subsequently parcelled up and dispersed to museums around Britain and North America. This essay gives an account of this process and attempts to provide a description of Coutts’ late wardrobe, discusses how it relates to his life and times and re-unites on paper, at least, the surviving strands of the original collection. The essay also presents details of the cut and construction of some of these clothes, through descriptions, photography and annotated cutting diagrams.


`Does Your Highness feel like a gold person or a silver one?' Princess Margaret and Dior

pp. 55-74(20)

Behlen, Beatrice

This article charts the relationship between Princess Margaret (1930?2002) and the House of Dior. Her relatively early adoption of the New Look accelerated her rise to a major fashion icon. Choosing a Dior ball gown for her offi? cial twenty-first birthday photographs cemented her image as the archetypal princess. Unusually for a member of the British royal family, Princess Margaret visited the French fashion house in Paris in 1949, 1951 and 1959, ordering couture gowns on several occasions, and also attended Dior fashion shows at Blenheim Palace in 1952, 1954 and 1958. While the close association between the Princess and Christian Dior (1905?1957) was relatively short-lived, it was mutually beneficial and important to the public image of both royal patron and couturier.


Elle and the Development of Stylisme in 1960s Paris

pp. 75-91(17)

Romano, Alexis

This essay stems from a paper presented at the Costume Society’s Annual Symposium in Leeds in July 2010 on the theme of The Price of Fashion. In this expanded version, the author identifies the construction of stylisme, a new ready-to-wear model in 1960s France, in the pages of Elle magazine. Contextualized in a changing industrial and social landscape, the essay questions how these new depictions of stylisme served to improve consumers’ ideas on ready-to-wear clothing in an industry previously fuelled by haute couture.


Dress for Success: A Journey from Past to Present Among Tibetans

pp. 92-110(19)

Bassini, Patrizia

This article examines the problem of what to wear among Tibetans in Qinghai, China. Starting with recent media coverage, which reported how Tibetan traditional attire is becoming a powerful political statement, I will attempt to illustrate how the dramatic transformations in the way Tibetans dress are not a new phenomenon but an ongoing process of the past fifty years. From the analysis of people’s narratives and extended participant observation, it emerges that the choice of garments is of real concern to many Tibetan people as it communicates messages about the self and their position in the world. I contend that Tibetan men especially have strategically taken to wearing Western-style suits in an attempt to enact Han Chinese economic success.


Selective List of Recent Articles from Periodicals

pp. 111-115(5)

Poppy, Pat


Selective List of Recent Dress Exhibitions

pp. 116-122(7)

Stewart, Imogen


Book Reviews

pp. 123-139(17)


The Costume Society Awards

pp. 140-140(1)