Volume 46

Costume, Volume 46, Number 2, 2012

Contents

 

Editorial (1)

pp. 141-141(1)

 

Editorial (2)

pp. 143-144(2)

 

Aquadynamics and the Athletocracy: Jennie Fletcher and the British Women's 4×100 metre Freestyle Relay Team at the 1912 Stockholm Olympic Games

pp. 145-164(20)

Williams, Jean

This article considers the part played by aquadynamics, or a concern for the technical properties of swimming costumes, in the career of Jennie Fletcher (1890‐1968) who won Britain’s first individual Olympic female swimming medal (bronze) at the Stockholm Olympic Games in 1912 and contributed to the first women’s team gold in the 4×100 metre Freestyle Relay. Her light silk one-piece racing swimsuit represented a new kind of modernity: the revealed sporting body enabled competitive principles, rather than modesty, to define the appearance of the female swimmer. The article also examines the place of the working-class competitor in our understanding of the early Games, an ‘athletocracy’ where performance, not background, enabled individuals to compete. The work therefore also explores the relevance of Fletcher’s birthplace, Leicester, in the development of amateur and professional swimming and in the production of swmming costumes for both sport and leisure.

 

`It's possible to play the game marvellously and at the same time look pretty and be perfectly fit': Sport, Women and Fashion in Inter-war Britain

pp. 165-179(15) 


Skillen, Fiona

This article will examine the development of women’s increasing participation in sport and its impact on the subsequent emergence of sportswear for women in inter-war Britain. It will explore the public discourses which surrounded these women and their clothes in order to point up the complex nature of the problems women faced when making decisions about what to wear for sports activities.

 

The Clothing and Footwear Industries and Professional Football Clubs in England, 1950-1975

pp. 180-196(17)


Bailey, Ann

The paper focuses on the trade that existed between the English clothing and footwear industries and various professional football clubs in England from 1950 to 1975. It examines the sponsorship deals and advertisements that featured players wearing agreed garments and accessories during high-profile media events, and questions the importance of such occasions. The events included prestigious occasions such as the Football Association (FA) Cup Final and a growing number of international competitions. Unpicking the meanings of the business relationships that developed offers an opportunity to better understand how success on the football field offered the potential for increased trade to the clothiers in a constantly shifting marketplace.

 

Decorative Dashes: Disrobing the Practice of Streaking

pp. 197-211(15) 


Kohe, Geoffery Z

As often as some athletes don their Lycra, others are almost as frequently disrobing and dashing across sports grounds. Yet, while nude performance is accepted in such cultural domains as dance and theatre, its place in sport is contested. Taking cues from scholars who write about the body, sexuality, and nudity — Barcan (2004), Carr-Gomm (2010), Kirkpatrick (2010), Martin (1991) and Shilling (2008) — this paper explores the complexities of streaking and its intertwining associations with sport and wider social, cultural and political contexts. I consider how ongoing debates about nudity and nakedness, and about clothed and unclothed bodies, create an opportunity for us to consider streaking as a valid and aesthetically valuable practice. I argue that we might move beyond streaking as an act of comical deviance, flagrant criminality or ‘anti-costume’, and view it as an acceptable mode of physicality with its own individual and collective meanings.

 

`Hand of God', Shirt of the Man: The Materiality of Diego Maradona


pp. 212-225(14)


Hughson, John; Moore, Kevin

Among the ‘first eleven’ items of interest in the National Football Museum, Manchester, UK is the football shirt worn by Diego Maradona (b. 1960) in the 1986 FIFA World Cup quarter-final match between Argentina and England. This paper reflects upon the cultural significance of the shirt as a museum object. A discussion of the shirt’s history, from its wearing at the 1986 match to its imminent reappearance in the National Football Museum’s new location, leads to the conclusion that, above all, although it may be subject to differing symbolic interpretations, the shirt exists as a material object, the observation of which affords football aesthetes an appreciative reminder of Maradona’s extraordinary artistry with a ball at his feet.

 

Dressed for Sport: A Photographic Miscellany


pp. 226-234(9)


Byrde, Penelope

 

Retrospective List of Articles on Sportswear Published in Costume 1968-2008

pp. 235-236(2)


Poppy, Pat

 

New and Recent Books

pp. 237-242(6)

Buruma, Anna

 

Book Reviews

pp. 243-260(18)

 

Obituary

pp. 261-262(2)

 

The Costume Society Awards

pp. 263-263(1)

 

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Thursday, October 23rd: The BBC has uploaded a collection of programmes called 'The Art of Fashion' on their iPlayer. These programmes include interviews with Vivienne Westwood, Jasper Conran, Alexander McQueen, and fashion models from the 1940s and 1950s. Perfect to watch during your lunch break! www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/group/p026gvr1 BBC iPlayer - The Art of Fashion www.bbc.co.uk Watch TV programmes from the The Art of Fashion collection on BBC iPlayer.

Wednesday, October 22nd: Having trained with Balenciaga, Lanvin and Balmain, Oscar de la Renta became the American couturier of choice for women of the Whitehouse (from Jacqueline Kennedy to Hillary Clinton) and red carpet Hollywood superstars. Part of the old school fashion establishment passes with him. Oscar de la Renta's life and fashion – in pictures www.theguardian.com Fashion designer Oscar De La Renta, who has died aged 82, has been dressing influential models, actors and powerful women since the 1960s. Here are some snapshots of his style

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