In this week's blog post, Costume Society member Sue Mear tells us about the celebrations being held at Charles Frederick Worth's birthplace, Wake House in Lincolnshire, to celebrate the 200th anniversary of his birth.
After years' worth of preparations by Trustees and volunteers, last weekend Wake House in Bourne, Lincolnshire was lucky to host free events to celebrate the 200 year anniversary of the birth of one of its previous residents - Charles Frederick Worth - who became known as the father of haute couture. Charles Frederick Worth (CFW) was born 13th October 1825, at 41 North Street, Bourne, in a building now known as Wake House, and spent his childhood in Bourne, before moving to London, and then later at the age of 20 emigrating to Paris. Over the years in Paris, he changed the way wealthy clients accessed fashionable gowns, as he positioned himself as an 'artist' designer that clients would want to seek out for his creations, rather than the client going to a dressmaker with their own requests/ideas. The House of Worth garments were made convertible because they were made to a high standard by a skilled workroom, using high quality fabrics, but mainly because they were designed by him - a designer whose creations were desired by clients, all of which led to the concept of designer Haute Couture. Charles Frederick Worth was also credited with introducing live mannequins (models) and authenticating his works with a signature label, just as a painter may sign their artwork.
Over the past weekend of 11th and 12th October 2025, Wake House welcomed over 800 visitors to celebrate his birth in the Lincolnshire town, with all events and talks free to visitors. The two day packed programme included House of Worth garments on display; a film documentary premiere; and talks by fashion historians, authors, and two of Worth's family descendants.
Label depicting Worth's signature. Image courtesy of Sue Mear.
The trustees were delighted to welcome Olivia Worth van Hoegaerden - Charles Frederick Worth's great great granddaughter, who had travelled from Paris and who spent the entire weekend with us, concluding the weekend's series of talks speaking about the fashion house after the death of CFW, as it continued under the reign of her great grandfather, grandfather, and other relatives.
Wake House was also pleased that Paul Quincey, a descendant of Worth's Lincolnshire cousins, was able to join them and attend the weekend celebrations, in addition to explaining to visitors the Lincolnshire history of Charles Frederick and his family heritage.
All the talks were enthusiastically enjoyed, including Philip Warren's highly informative and entertaining talk "Fashioning the Victorian Woman - from Worth to Home Made Clothing 1858 - 1895". Philip, a recent Chair of the Costume Society, is the Collections and Learning Manager at Leicestershire Museums, and was able to lend Wake House some beautiful Worth London garments for display over the weekend, which visitors enjoyed being able to see in person and add to their experience and understanding of the legacy of the House of Worth.
The stunning black woollen structured day jacket on display was dated late 1940s, by Worth London, and was generally considered by visitors to be the garment that they would most like to wear today walking down the street, with its silhouette not having 'dated'. The black and bronze silk strapless cocktail dress with internal bodice boning, and a separate long sleeved bolero - dated 1950s by Worth London - were also popular with visitors, as they admired the pleating of the checked fabric to create a visual illusion of black colour blocking down the central panel of the dress, whilst the fabric pleated down the length of the skirt, also swooped at the sides to extenuate the wide hip and narrow waist style that Dior had pioneered with his 1947 New Look. Both the Worth London outfits were kindly on loan from Leicestershire County Council Museum Collections, who also had in their archive a stunning c.1895-1900 House of Worth gown designed by Jean-Philippe Worth (Charles Frederick's son) which, after seeing it in real life, I can confirm is beautiful, constructed from stunning lace and shimmering purple velvet, with voided/devore patterned gold daffodils. Due to its age and heritage however the item is very precious and delicate, but we were happy to be able to reproduce a life size image of the garment, to display amongst the other genuine Worth garments over the weekend.
Also on display we were very lucky for Olivia Worth van Hoegaerden to lend us personal items for display, including her beautiful black velvet hooded cape (c.late 1800s/early 1900s), which was regularly worn by her grandmother to the opera, and which Olivia still wears. The cape also had delicate crystal and beaded embellishment, and a stunning contrast gold lamé lining. Olivia was also kind enough to lend for display an exquisite Worth Paris silk scarf, from late 1940s, which as she mentioned in her talk over the weekend, she had been able to find on Ebay!
We were also happy to be able to display a variety of items from Baldocks Mill Heritage Centre in Bourne, including reproduction historical undergarments, in addition to an original dining plate - gifted from Olivia Worth van Hoegaerden - which featured the Worth family motif from Charles Frederick Worth's family home in Suresnes, France.
As part of the celebration events, there were many other fascinating and entertaining talks over the weekend including Scott Schiavone (Decorative Arts Curator and YouTube fashion historian), who examined how the artist Winterhalter painted exquisite, photorealistic images of fabrics including lace, tulle, and satin in his portraits - some of which featured on Worth gowns. Meredith Towne (fashion historian and speaker) thoroughly engaged visitors with how garments of the era were constructed, and kindly brought along genuine 1800s gowns, bodices, and underpinnings which visitors were able to examine.
Tours of Wake House - Charles Frederick's childhood home - were also booked up and very popular, as were the various family craft activities, and a new film about Worth's life, achievements and legacy which was premiered on the Saturday evening. The documentary, by Paradigm Arts, featured interviews with speakers Olivia Worth van Hoegaerden and author Stephen Clarke, who during their fascinating discussion at Wake House, examined in depth the marriage and business partnership of Charles Frederick and Marie Worth. The documentary also displayed footage from the recent Worth exhibition held at the grand Petit Palais gallery in Paris, which welcomed 178,000 visitors over its four month Summer 2025 opening, showing how the impact and design legacy of the House of Worth and Charles Frederick still continues.
Who would have thought a boy, born in Bourne, rural Lincolnshire, 200 years ago would have grown up to have international clients, and such a long lasting impact upon fashion history and the Parisian Haute Couture industry?
Thanks to a National Lottery Heritage Fund grant, which supported the weekend's events at 41 North Street, Bourne (Wake House, now run as a Community Building) we should be looking in even better shape by the time CFW's 250th anniversary comes around, with on-going renovation plans for the building!
