Volume 43

Costume, Number 43, 2009

Contents

 

Editorial

pp. v-vi(2)

Byrde, Penelope; Wilson, Verity

 

Fustians in Englishmen's Dress: From Cloth to Emblem

pp. 1-18(18)


Sykas, Philip A.

This paper examines the nature of the textiles known as fustians, originally imported but later manufactured in England. The focus is on eighteenth-century England when fustians underwent further development into modern cloth types. Evidence of the use of fustians for men's dress, and the status of those who wore them, is explored to shed further light on the developments leading up to the association of fustian with working-class men. The paper is based on a presentation delivered at the Costume Society Symposium: Town and Country Style in 2007.

 

The Role of Veilcloths Among the Rabaris of Kutch, Gujarat, Western India


pp. 19-37(19)


Edwards, Eiluned

This article gives a brief introduction to the Rabaris of Kutch district, Gujarat, in western India. It then follows the biographical strands of the veilcloth worn by Rabari women (who are known as Rabaran) through its making, use and circulation, exploring the basis of their values and beliefs. Analysis of its trajectory reveals the impact of change on the Rabaris' way of life following the development of agricultural industries in Kutch in the past three to four decades. Previously secure in the pious nature of their vocation as herders, the decline of their form of animal husbandry in the post-colonial era has compelled Rabaris to review their calling; as they renegotiate their identity at individual and group level, in common with the nationalists of the early twentieth century, dress has become a site in which that identity is contested and reconfigured.

 

Clothing the Family of an MP in the 1690s: An Analysis of the Day Book of Edward Clarke of Chipley, Somerset


pp. 38-54(17) 


Clarke, Bridget

An analysis of the Day Book 1692?1703 of Edward Clarke of Chipley, Somerset (1650?1710), MP for Taunton, reveals evidence of his expenses on clothes for his children. He also describes where the family shopped and who did the shopping, what materials were used and what they cost, who made the clothes and whether clothes were refurbished. The article uses the correspondence of Edward and his wife Mary to show how fashion and clothes were an enduring interest and subject of discussion in both town and country.

 

The Quintessential Englishman? Henry Temple's Town and Country Dress


pp. 55-65(11) 


Clatworthy, Lee

This article examines some of the purchases of personal clothing by Henry Temple, first Viscount Palmerston (1676?1757) recorded in his surviving account books, and goes on to discuss whether he could be said to have had separate town and country wardrobes. A version of this paper was presented at the Costume Society Symposium: Town and Country Style in 2007 and is based on the author's research for a doctoral thesis on the subject of Henry Temple's personal papers at the Broadlands Estate.

 

'Sent from Town': Commissioning Clothing in Britain During the Long Eighteenth Century


pp. 66-84(19)


Lambert, Miles

The long period from the Restoration to the accession of Queen Victoria saw a rise in 'popular consumerism' affecting many aspects of British society and commerce, nowhere more so than in the market for textiles and clothing. Consumers were offered an increasing range of finished goods, rather than merely materials, but many of these were available only in larger towns. To access goods, customers often relied on the long-established process of commissioning at a distance through the offices of family members, friends or business contacts, acting as agents. This formed a significant channel for elite and popular consumption.

 

Redfern Limited, 1892 to 1940


pp. 85-108(24) 


North, Susan

This is the second of two articles on the history of Redfern, based on research for the author's M.A. in the history of dress at the Courtauld Institute in 1993 (Part I, 'John Redfern and Sons, 1847 to 1892', appeared in Costume, 42 (2008), 145?68). This article examines the company's history after incorporation in 1892, Redfern's influence on fashion, particularly during the period 1895?1908, and its survival under various names until 1940.

 

Portable Pets: Live and Apparently Live Animals in Fashion, 1880-1925


pp. 109-126(18)


Long, Julia

In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, well-dressed women around the world embraced the emerging trend of animal-bedecked styles. Both live and stuffed animals were lavishly featured in daily ensembles, and the beauty of the natural world was assimilated into the world of fashion. This paper will examine this trend and its various avenues, looking specifically at the incorporation of live and stuffed animals into dress, the popularity of taxidermy, and the methods of reanimating dead creatures. The paper also takes into account the dual underlying reasons for this trend: the pervasive interest in the natural world and the special affinity women had for animals.

 

Reflections on the Development of the Study of Dress History and of Costume Curatorship: A Case Study of Anne Buck OBE

pp. 127-137(11)


Jarvis, Anthea

On 12 May 2007, almost exactly two years after her death, the Costume Society held an Anne Buck Memorial Study Day in London entitled Studying Four Hundred Years of Fashion. This paper was written and delivered as the introduction to the Study Day. It attempted, through an examination of Anne Buck's work as curator of a costume collection, in particular as Keeper of the Gallery of English Costume, Manchester, from 1947 to 1972, to assess her outstanding contribution to the study of dress history and to the development and use of dress collections in museums; and to consider her legacy to historians and curators today, thirty-five years after her retirement.

 

Headlines Make Fashion: The Use of Newsprint Fabric and Newspaper Clippings in Fashion and Fancy Dress


pp. 138-149(12)


Eck, Carly

This article explores the use of newspaper-printed fabric in nineteenth- and twentieth-century fancy dress costumes, as well as its employment by fashion designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and John Galliano. It examines the use of authentic newspaper clippings and paper applied to fancy dress and fashion, and discusses Viktor and Rolf's innovative method of using real newspaper within their conceptual framework.

 

Blue Denim by the Bay: The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives

pp. 150-165(16)


Downey, Lynn

The designer Bill Blass once famously stated that Levi's jeans are 'the best single item of apparel ever designed'. He may not have known, however, that his couture firm and Levi Strauss & Co. were two of only a handful of clothing companies to have formal archives programmes in place in the United States of America as the millennium approached. Established in 1989, the Levi Strauss & Co. Archives is now the benchmark for other denim and apparel companies who have recognized the usefulness of heritage in clothing design and marketing, among other business applications. This article surveys the founding of Levi Strauss & Co., the invention and development of the blue jean, the holdings and management of the company's Archives, its work with designers, how it supports advertising and branding, then concludes with an in-depth exploration of a few of the collection's most rare and valuable pieces.

 

New and Recent Books

pp. 166-170(5)

Snowden, James

 

Selective List of Articles from Periodicals

pp. 171-175(5)

Arnold, Rebecca

 

Reviews

pp. 176-193(18)

 

Exhibitions

pp. 194-198(5)

 

Costume Colloquium: A Tribute to Janet Arnold

pp. 199-199(1)

Salen, Jill

 

Mairéad Dunlevy, 1941-2008

pp. 200-200(1)

Ward, Alex

 

The Costume Society Awards

pp. 201-201(1)

 

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