Volume 45

Costume, Number 45, 2011

Contents

 

Editorial

pp. v-vi(2)

Byrde, Penelope; Wilson, Verity

 

Costume — The Journal of the Costume Society: Past, Present and Future

pp. 1-7(7)


Stewart, Imogen

This year Costume moves into the digital age as the back issues go online. This article considers the content of the Journal across the forty-four years of its existence. The Journal has always contained useful information about resources as well as varied and informative articles contributed by expert authors from a diversity of backgrounds.
 

Presuming Too Far 'above his very base and low degree'?: Thomas Cromwell's Use of Textiles in his Schemes for Social and Political Success (1527-1540)


pp. 8-23(16)


Isaac, Veronica

The article will examine the textiles and dress purchased and worn by Thomas Cromwell (c. 1485–1540). Focusing on the period between 1527 and 1540 (parameters shaped by the dates of the surviving primary documents), it investigates the extent to which Cromwell's relationship with textiles and dress reflects his ambition for, and eventual achievement of, social and political advancement.
 

Women's Dress in Sixteenth-Century Sweden


pp. 24-38(15)


Andersson, Eva I.

This essay presents an overview of women's fashions in sixteenth-century Sweden, which at the time included present-day Finland. Aristocratic fashions and the manners of dress of the people are considered, using documentary, visual and material sources from the period such as sumptuary laws, inventories, church paintings, portraits, woodcuts and surviving garments.


A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland


pp. 39-62(24)


Payne, Susan; Wilcox, David; Pardoe, Tuula; Mikhaila, Ninya

In December 2004, a local family donated a cream silk slashed doublet to Perth Museum and Art Gallery. Stylistically, the doublet is given a date between 1620 and 1630, but the family story is that it was a gift to one of their ancestors about the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689. The donation stimulated a programme of investigation centred on the doublet's conservation, curatorial research, the production of two replica suits and the mounting of an exhibition. This project won the United Kingdom Award for Conservation 2007. The Institute of Conservation, the Museums, Archives & Libraries Council and the National Preservation Office support this nationwide award. This essay reflects four different specialists' engagement with the doublet: historical context, tailoring, conservation and reconstruction.
 

From Caterpillar to Butterfly and Back: A Waistcoat of the French Revolution


pp. 63-74(12)


Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly

This paper analyses the construction, colour and enigmatic embroidered motifs of an extremely rare Revolutionary-era waistcoat or gilet, recently acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Though the garment's provenance is unknown, it must have belonged to a noble convert to the Revolutionary cause; through his clothing, he declared his allegiance to the political and sartorial ideology of the Revolution. The gilet provides a snapshot of a man and a nation in the midst of a metamorphosis.
 

The Screen Archive South East: Non-Fiction Film in Fashion History


pp. 75-84(10)


Eck, Carly; Kauffman, Hannah

Regional screen archives, including film, video and digital media, protect the local vicinity's film heritage. Such archives generally fall outside the fashion historian's consciousness. There is a wealth of information on fiction film and fashion, but non-fiction film remains an underused source. This article examines the Screen Archive South East (SASE) based at the University of Brighton. The archive has a rich collection of amateur and professional non-fiction film from the late nineteenth century to the present day. The archive's resources inspired a collaborative project between the SASE and the Royal College of Art (RCA) entitled Screen Search Fashion. It investigated dress from the inter-war period, an era that saw significant changes in fashion. The resulting online resource includes film clips, stills, descriptions, contextual information and links to further archival sources. This article discusses the Screen Search Fashion project and presents three case studies showing how the films at SASE offer a rare glimpse into people's lives and their clothing choices.
 

Rediscovering Mattli: A Forgotten 1950s London Couturier


pp. 85-100(16)


Ness, Caroline; Brooks, Mary M.

Based on the author's research for her MA, supervised by Mary M. Brooks, this article examines the history of the little-documented but once famous London couturier, Mattli (1903/1904–1982). An argument is made for a re-evaluation of the importance of Mattli's contribution to the post-war British fashion and textile industry which has so far been overlooked in the histories of fashion. Research is focused upon a wide range of sources, including a collection of press books from the Mattli archive at the Fashion Museum, Bath, and extant clothing in British collections.
 

How It All Began: A Life in Textile Conservation


pp. 101-110(10)


Finch, Karen

 

New and Recent Books

pp. 111-118(8)

Snowden, James

 

Selective List of Recent Articles from Periodicals

pp. 119-123(5)

Poppy, Pat

 

Selective List of Recent Dress Exhibitions

pp. 124-128(5)

Stewart, Imogen

 

Book Reviews

pp. 129-146(18)

 

Pamela Clabburn MBE, 1914-2010

pp. 147-148(2)

Levey, Santina

 

The Costume Society Awards

pp. 149-149(1)

 

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Saturday, November 22nd: Costume Colloquium Florence sidebar: when opening a tights / socks shop, DO commission legs door handles. #CCIV

Saturday, November 22nd: So we have kicked off day 3 at the Costume Colloquium in Florence. We've just heard Margaret Olugbemisola Areo on the Aso-Ebi among the Yoruba people in Nigeria. A Yoruba party host's personal influence is judged by the number of alike dressed people at their event.

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