Costume, Number 45, 2011
Byrde, Penelope; Wilson, Verity
This year Costume moves into the digital age as the back issues go online. This article considers the content of the Journal across the forty-four years of its existence. The Journal has always contained useful information about resources as well as varied and informative articles contributed by expert authors from a diversity of backgrounds.
Presuming Too Far 'above his very base and low degree'?: Thomas Cromwell's Use of Textiles in his Schemes for Social and Political Success (1527-1540)
The article will examine the textiles and dress purchased and worn by Thomas Cromwell (c. 1485–1540). Focusing on the period between 1527 and 1540 (parameters shaped by the dates of the surviving primary documents), it investigates the extent to which Cromwell's relationship with textiles and dress reflects his ambition for, and eventual achievement of, social and political advancement.
Andersson, Eva I.
This essay presents an overview of women's fashions in sixteenth-century Sweden, which at the time included present-day Finland. Aristocratic fashions and the manners of dress of the people are considered, using documentary, visual and material sources from the period such as sumptuary laws, inventories, church paintings, portraits, woodcuts and surviving garments.
Payne, Susan; Wilcox, David; Pardoe, Tuula; Mikhaila, Ninya
In December 2004, a local family donated a cream silk slashed doublet to Perth Museum and Art Gallery. Stylistically, the doublet is given a date between 1620 and 1630, but the family story is that it was a gift to one of their ancestors about the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689. The donation stimulated a programme of investigation centred on the doublet's conservation, curatorial research, the production of two replica suits and the mounting of an exhibition. This project won the United Kingdom Award for Conservation 2007. The Institute of Conservation, the Museums, Archives & Libraries Council and the National Preservation Office support this nationwide award. This essay reflects four different specialists' engagement with the doublet: historical context, tailoring, conservation and reconstruction.
This paper analyses the construction, colour and enigmatic embroidered motifs of an extremely rare Revolutionary-era waistcoat or gilet, recently acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Though the garment's provenance is unknown, it must have belonged to a noble convert to the Revolutionary cause; through his clothing, he declared his allegiance to the political and sartorial ideology of the Revolution. The gilet provides a snapshot of a man and a nation in the midst of a metamorphosis.
Eck, Carly; Kauffman, Hannah
Regional screen archives, including film, video and digital media, protect the local vicinity's film heritage. Such archives generally fall outside the fashion historian's consciousness. There is a wealth of information on fiction film and fashion, but non-fiction film remains an underused source. This article examines the Screen Archive South East (SASE) based at the University of Brighton. The archive has a rich collection of amateur and professional non-fiction film from the late nineteenth century to the present day. The archive's resources inspired a collaborative project between the SASE and the Royal College of Art (RCA) entitled Screen Search Fashion. It investigated dress from the inter-war period, an era that saw significant changes in fashion. The resulting online resource includes film clips, stills, descriptions, contextual information and links to further archival sources. This article discusses the Screen Search Fashion project and presents three case studies showing how the films at SASE offer a rare glimpse into people's lives and their clothing choices.
Ness, Caroline; Brooks, Mary M.
Based on the author's research for her MA, supervised by Mary M. Brooks, this article examines the history of the little-documented but once famous London couturier, Mattli (1903/1904–1982). An argument is made for a re-evaluation of the importance of Mattli's contribution to the post-war British fashion and textile industry which has so far been overlooked in the histories of fashion. Research is focused upon a wide range of sources, including a collection of press books from the Mattli archive at the Fashion Museum, Bath, and extant clothing in British collections.