Megan Eames, Yarwood Grant Winner 2021

By Megan Eames

‘From Welsh Plains to Welsh Pride: unpicking the material, mythical and historical narratives woven into the fabric of the Welsh identity.’

I received the Yarwood Research Grant in 2021 to support my MA dissertation: ‘From Welsh Plains to Welsh Pride: unpicking the material, mythical and historical narratives woven into the fabric of the Welsh identity.’ This was the Final Masters Project for the MA in Fashion Cultures and Histories at the London College of Fashion, for which I received a distinction.

The dissertation was written as an exploration into the history, context and development of a type of Welsh woollen woven cloth, otherwise known as brethyn. The journey begins with humble origins in the eighteenth and nineteenth century, where it was produced as a cottage industry in rural Wales and sold to make clothing for enslaved individuals in the Transatlantic trade in enslaved people. As an aspect of Welsh history which has been little attended to, this research project explores why this is the case, examining wider issues such as the role of national museums and archives, the role of nation builders, and how our engagement with history is crucial. The research project identifies that today this cloth is sold as an expensive commodity and symbol of national identity. By addressing this evolution, the dissertation examines how we experience culture, in particular minority cultures such as Wales.

I used the cloth and its metaphorical threads to explore key themes, such as:

- (Un)Remembering History - Inspired by research trips to St Fagans, the National Museum of History in Cardiff, and one of Europe’s leading open-air museums. I explored the role of Folk and National Museums and the role of such institutions in the production of historical and national narratives in Wales. 

- Tradition and Trauma - I explored the concept of cultural myths and the dominant narratives which make up "traditional Welshness", as well as exploring the relationship between tradition and trauma - how trauma is weaved throughout Wales' history and identity and what this means for Welsh people today. 

- Commodity Nationalism – I explored the concept and task of nation-branding, the importance of tourism in Wales and explored the Welsh brethyn's position within the capitalist landscape of today and how that is shaping a commodified Welshness.

As a Welsh-speaking native I followed an autoethnographic approach, with the concept of the Welsh identity and Welshness being interrogated. Further qualitative historical, secondary research was also carried out, as well as content analysis.

The Yarwood Research Grant was invaluable as I was able to use the grant to travel to the National Wool Museum and to St Fagans, the National Museum of History in Cardiff on several occasions as part of my research and where I interviewed the Principle Curator of Contemporary and Community History.

The MA Final Project was a challenging and rewarding experience which I thoroughly enjoyed and I was very proud of my final work. I am very grateful to the Costume Society for supporting my work!

I am currently an early career researcher undertaking a PhD at the University of Manchester. My PhD, titled ‘How many clothes are enough? The right to adequate clothing’, explores inclusivity and accessibility in the fashion industry and how these are required for a just and sustainable fashion future.