In this week’s blog, Costume Society News Editor Dr Babette Radclyffe-Thomas reviews the Ladies of Blenheim fashion display.
Blenheim Palace, a 300-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site in Oxfordshire, has recently opened Ladies of Blenheim: Style and Celebration.
Home to the Dukes of Marlborough since 1705, set in over 2,000 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown landscaped parkland and designed by Vanbrugh in the Baroque style, Blenheim Palace is also the birthplace of one of Britain’s most famous political figures, Sir Winston Churchill and it was his father who on entering the Estate from the village of Woodstock, described the vista as the ‘finest view in England’.
Following the success of last year’s blockbuster Icons of British Fashion exhibition, the collections team at Blenheim have opened the wardrobes of the ladies of Blenheim to showcase 12 garments and a range of accessories. There are probably over one hundred pieces in the palace’s collections which range from childrenswear to riding outfits throughout the centuries, and many of the gowns, accessories, and heirloom pieces are being showcased for the first time in over 20 years, due to their delicate condition. Hosted in the library, an expansive 180-foot-long room, the display showcases fashion worn by the Spencer-Churchill women at historic weddings, coronations, and other grand occasions.
Ladies of Blenheim on display at Blenheim Palace. Image courtesy of Dr Babette Radclyffe-Thomas.
“We wanted to highlight some of the most beautiful garments tangled to some of remarkable women that are or have been part of the Spencer-Churchill family,” Collections and Conservation Manager, Carmen Alvarez, said.
“In the past, we have put together several displays that included original garments, famous wardrobes from well-known filming projects and, of course, last year's Icons of British Fashion, our biggest exhibition to date. Fashion has always been an important link for Blenheim Palace. We understand that our guests love this type of display and help them to understand a bit more the history of the Palace and Family from a different perspective. This year we wanted to do something small but tasteful, to share relevant moments in the life of these remarkable Ladies of the family,” Collections and Conservation Manager, Carmen Alvarez, said.
Consuelo, the 9th Duchess of Marlborough’s wardrobe is a particular highlight, especially for costume and dress historians. One of the most striking garments is the 10th Duchess’ Coronation Gown, a cream gown with metallic embroidery, which has been worn on three royal coronations, beginning with that of George V in 1911 when it was worn by Consuelo, the 9th Duchess of Marlborough. Alexander Mary, the 10th Duchess of Marlborough wore the dress for the coronations of King George VI in 1937 and Queen Elizabeth II in 1953.
A replica of a dress worn by Consuelo in the 1905 family portrait by John Singer Sargent which hangs in the Red Drawing Room, is also on display. The dress is adorned with embroidered net lace with sequins, beads, pink satin sleeves and a fur trim. Next to this replica dress is Consuelo’s bolero jacket, bought from Bergdorf Goodman, with her initials embroidered into the lining. This piece is on loan from Lady Henrietta Spencer-Churchill.
Lady Rosemary’s pale peach satin coronation dress designed by Norman Hartnell is a particular highlight. As a Maid of Honour to the Queen, the dresses were designed to be beautiful yet also practical with padding at the hips for comfort and cut just above the ground for ease of walking. Alongside is her headpiece with beading and leaves mirroring those in the bodice of their gowns. Another Hartnell creation is on show too, this ivory satin gown worn by Susan Hornby, the mother of the present Duke of Marlborough in 1951, was later altered to be worn as a ball gown.
There are 1940’s era Red Cross uniforms worn by the 10th Duchess of Marlborough, who was a long-term supporter of the Red Cross, as well as her riding outfit which was once part of her collection when she was the Marchioness of Blandford.
A 1980 wedding dress worn by Lady Henrietta Spencer-Churchill is exquisitely embroidered, with a matching jacket and shoes and more recent pieces include the three bridal looks worn Camilla Thorp, who in 2018 married Lord Blandford, the eldest son of the current Duke of Marlborough. A Dolce and Gabbana custom wedding gown features lace embellished with tiny pale pink and white appliqued flowers and seed pearls. Lady Blandford’s fitted lace dress with white and silver applique detail, worn at her reception, is also on show.
The exhibition runs until 31 August 2025 and hopefully visitors won’t have to wait long until more fashion goes on show. “I am sure we will have more chances to combine history, art and fashion in many other interesting ways. We will definitely try our best to surprise our guests with new future displays. Maybe they won't have to wait too long...” Collections and Conservation Manager, Carmen Alvarez, said.
For more, read Babette’s review of Blenheim’s previous Icons of British Fashion exhibition.