In this week's blog post, Costume Society Trustee Judith Hepner reviews 'Paris, Capitale de la Perle', the exhibition currently being held at L’École des Arts Joailliers. The exhibition runs until June 1st 2025.
Paris has always been a city synonymous with elegance, artistry, and innovation. Among its many contributions to global culture, few treasures shine as brightly and timelessly as the pearl. This season, L’École des Arts Joailliers presents Paris, Capitale de la Perle, an exhibition that delves into the profound relationship between Paris and these luminous gems, long celebrated as symbols of sophistication and grace. Running from November 21, 2024, to June 1, 2025, at the historic Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau, the exhibit tells a compelling story of beauty, resilience, and ingenuity through meticulous curation and exceptional craftsmanship.
As Élise Gonnet-Pon, Managing Director of L’ÉCOLE, France & Europe, explains:
“In its new Parisian address on the Grands Boulevards, very close to rue Lafayette, which once grouped traders of fine pearls, and on the occasion of this exhibition dedicated to the pearl, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts offers the public a range of learning paths to discover this fascinating gem. Around the exhibition are offered a book, talks, a 4-hour course at the crossroads of gemology and the history of jewelry—punctuated by many experiments around this captivating material—and a selection of reference publications to consult at the library, also available at the bookshop L’Escarboucle, which have both just opened their doors.”
Visitors can enrich their appreciation of pearls through guided tours, pearl grading workshops, and La Voix des Bijoux, a podcast series exploring various jewelry themes via interviews with curators, gemologists, and historians. These initiatives organized by Van Cleef & Arpels highlight the brand’s commitment to celebrating the artistry and heritage of jewelry-making.
Curated by Olivier Segura and Léonard Pouy, the exhibition reflects their deep expertise and dedication. Olivier Segura, a gemologist and Scientific Director at L’ÉCOLE, transitioned from a career in advertising to pursue his passion for gemology. With a background in biology and geology, he has curated innovative exhibitions, and he explains the motivation behind this showcase:
“The subject of pearls has interested me for a long time, from a scientific point of view. Reading old documents, I realized that the pearl trade in Paris was extremely important at the turn of the 20th century. As there was not much additional information, the school decided to launch a research program, which resulted in an exhibition in Dubai in 2019 on the trade between France and the Emirates with a detailed catalog, and the current exhibition in Paris, accompanied by a dedicated book.”
Léonard Pouy, an art historian with a Ph.D. from Paris-Sorbonne University, is the Content and Academic Manager at L’ÉCOLE. His profound insights into cultural and historical narratives bring academic depth to the exhibition. Pouy also expands on the cultural and artistic legacy of pearls in his upcoming book, 'Paris, City of Pearls: A Historical Heyday for Jewelry'. This beautifully crafted hardcover, published by Editions Norma with contributions from Olivier Segura and Charline Coupeau, will be available in both English and French in early 2025. The book delves further into the historical importance and timeless appeal of pearls in Parisian jewelry design.
Paris, Capitale de la Perle features 100 carefully selected pieces from some of the world’s most prestigious institutions and private collections. Lenders include the Musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris, the Petit Palais, and the heritage archives of iconic jewelry houses such as Cartier, Fred, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Notably, the Albion Art private collection contributes rare and significant pieces, offering visitors an unparalleled glimpse into the artistry surrounding pearls. Van Cleef & Arpels, a co-organizer of the event, describes it as a unique opportunity to rediscover pearls’ cultural and historical impact on the world of jewelry. The exhibition’s implications extend far beyond its displays, serving as a tribute to the cultural, economic, and artistic legacy of pearls in shaping Parisian identity.
In describing important highlights of the exhibition, Olivier Segura reflected:
“It is difficult to specify the most important highlight, but it seemed important to us to reestablish the importance of the pearl in the economy of Paris at the end of the 19th century - beginning of the 20th century. Pearls (natural pearls at that time) had a value often more important than the diamond in its most beautiful qualities, and the magnificence of the pearls is found in the jewels exhibited.”
We asked Segura to describe the thinking behind the exhibition layout:
“The scenography is the result of the work of a team of internal scenographers, who wanted to respect the purity and the most famous color of the pearl: the white color. The difficulty was to insert this setting in the very beautiful room of the Mercy-Argenteau hotel, itself richly decorated, but which also corresponds to the great era of the pearl in Paris!”
Thus, through six thematic sections, visitors explore a unique facet of pearls’ significance. The journey begins with a gemological introduction, revealing the natural origins of pearls, their formation within mollusks, and the qualities that define their value, such as luster, color, size, and shape. Segura reminds visitors that:
“Natural pearls are never born from a grain of sand; this is a belief that is unfortunately too widespread.”
The exhibition then delves into the history of pearls, tracing their journey from the late 19th century through key periods like the Belle Époque and the "pearl mania" of the 1920s. Paris’s ascendancy as the world’s capital of fine pearls is illustrated through breathtaking creations by renowned jewelers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Georges Fouquet. One highlight is a platinum brooch from the 1930s, adorned with an exquisite pearl and diamonds, epitomizing the elegance of the Art Deco era.
Another beautiful piece featured is Van Cleef & Arpels necklace “Cadeau Imperial”, dated 2011 made of pearls, rubies, diamonds, white gold, and rose gold.
The showcase also explores pearls’ broader cultural resonance, highlighting their influence on opera, cinema, painting, and literature. Georges Bizet’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles serves as a poignant example of how pearls have inspired creators across disciplines. Commercially, the display examines the trade routes that connected the Arabian-Persian Gulf to Paris, emphasizing the cultural and economic exchanges that shaped the luxury jewelry industry.
The final section focuses on modern inspirations, showcasing contemporary designs that reinterpret pearls for today’s audience. French ateliers, alongside global pearl cultivators, have redefined the art of pearl jewelry, ensuring its relevance in a rapidly evolving world. This interplay between tradition and innovation underscores the pearl’s adaptability, much like Paris itself, which embraces change while honoring its heritage. The two contemporary creations photographed below exemplify how pearls continue to inspire modern jewelry design, seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with innovative techniques to captivate today’s audience.
When asked if there are current plans for the exhibition to travel internationally or be reproduced elsewhere, the curators offered:
“We hope of course to make the widest possible audience benefit from this topic. For the moment the itineraries are not yet programmed and the subjects are diverse and exciting in our different campuses. This exhibition offers a unique and exclusive opportunity for museum curators, jewelry historians, and fashion enthusiasts alike.”
As the exhibition seeks to inspire a deeper appreciation for the artistry and legacy of pearls, it also serves as a reminder of how cultural and economic exchanges have shaped our understanding of beauty and craftsmanship. Its legacy will undoubtedly resonate with audiences long after its doors close.
Judith has previously reviewed Paris-based exhibitions, including 'La Mode en Mouvement' during the Olympics; catch up on our blog.
